I have learned a lot during my first week in Paris, but I did not expect to learn what it means to be caught up in a major demonstration while far away from home.
We did not set out to see or be part of the May Day demonstrations today. Quite to the contrary, we glanced at maps of the demonstration route provided by friends here. Took a mid-morning walk along the beautiful Coulée verte René-Dumont—the nearly three-mile landscaped pathway which follows an old railway line. Returned to our flat briefly for an early afternoon break. Then deliberately headed away from where we thought the marchers were going to be, found an outdoor table at a wonderful café, ordered coffee, and sat down to what we thought would be a couple of hours of reading and relaxing.
The first hint that something is amiss is the slow-moving orderly caravan of at least a dozen police vans passing the café, heading toward the Place de la Nation. Then we start to hear intermittent explosions, as if someone were setting off smoke bombs. And when we look up to see the beginning of what eventually becomes a two-hour stream of what feels like tens of thousands of people—not the 18,000 that Reuters is (inaccurately?) estimating were there—we quickly join others in abandoning the sidewalk tables and allowing ourselves to be shepherded, by staff, into the safety of a covered area of the café with a tremendous view of what is happening. As if by magic, the staff also quickly transports and tables and chairs into the building, raises the awnings, and closes the doors as something acrid begins wafting through them and irritates our throats.
I could easily post a picture of the one demonstrator I saw being walked, by several policemen, away from the march at that moment. Or the picture of the trash receptacle that someone set on fire not far from where we are sitting. Or the woman, who as the final marchers are passing us, tries to hit one of our waiters because he is grabbing her arm and forcibly attempting to remove her from one of the chairs and tables he is setting up outside to accommodate returning customers—which clearly she is not. But this is not Dante’s Inferno. So I’ll leave that to the reporters who are looking to draw attention to the most dramatic, confrontational moments they are able to record rather than acknowledging the tens of thousands of people who felt strongly enough about the world around them to peacefully—but far from quietly—make their feelings known.
Instead, I’ll say that in spite of what our colleagues who are professional journalists are reporting, I am struck by how few altercations and how little violence I see from where I am sitting in a position of relative safety, seemingly a step removed from all that is unfolding. With approximately 300 people walking by every few minutes for nearly two hours, I might expect a steady stream of smoke bombs, broken windows and numerous confrontations much more than the brief whiffs of tear gas that blow our way, but that only happens during those first few minutes of the two-hour march we witness.
What is even more interesting to me is our differing perceptions of whatever focus there is to the entire demonstration. The news reports I’m skimming after the event ends focus on the protests against social conditions; handmade signs and printed banners in favor of better labor conditions; and a variety of other calls to action. But what I see from start to finish over a two-hour period are countless people of all ages and backgrounds calling for freedom for Palestinians and an end to attacks on Palestinians, with only one banner, near the end of that steady flow of marches, calling for Israelis and Palestinians to stop the violence and find a way to work together to bring an end to wars. The calls for labor rights, greater reactions to the global climate crisis, better treatment of women, and a variety of others issues seem to be more prevalent among those who pass us during the second half of the march—yet never completely outnumber those reacting to the ongoing tragedies and heartbreaking violence in the Middle East.
In spite of the intensity of the issues at the center of the march through this part of Paris (between the Place de la Bastille and the Place de la Nation), what is clearly visible is the same thing I have seen in other demonstrations—including those in San Francisco when our elected leaders were on the verge of taking our country into the war in Iraq. People are walking together out of a sense of commitment to what is important to them. Many of them walk quietly. Others are singing. And some shout messages through microphones and loudspeakers. There are a few marching bands, as if this were a festival rather than a demonstration designed to offer support-by-presence for causes they feel they can’t ignore. And there are sound trucks blaring music from different parts of the world.
I capture as much of this as I can with the camera in my cellphone. The signs. The banners. The seemingly never-ending passage of thousands of people. And even those poignant moments like the one in which a woman carrying a bright bouquet of flowers literally swims upstream by gently walking against the flow of the immense crowd—just as all of us, at some point, need to swim upstream and learn by observing and reflecting on what we otherwise might overlook.
These are clearly political moments. Social moments. Moments that are ephemeral and yet moments that are part of something rhizomatically spreading around the world. Moments that we may initially feel do not really matter and political expressions with which we may vehemently disagree—particularly if we are witnessing them as visitors rather than willing participants—as if we can observe them from safe places without allowing them to touch us. Yet they are also moments that we might (and should) review at some point in our future and realize, with open eyes, that they are world-shaping in what they help create.
They cannot be ignored.
They are moments that remind us that no matter how far we travel, we cannot and should not make the mistake of thinking that we ever can completely slip away from being part of what surrounds us.
NB: This is the sixth in a series of reflections on traveling and learning in Paris.